Wild West Pamirs

An uneventful though hot and extremely dusty ride brought us the rest of the way to Khorog, gateway to the Pamirs and a town with a wild west feel to it- people pour into it from all directions (there is even a bridge across the river to Afghanistan); and it is the only place with bars or any kind of social life for miles around so it gets quite rowdy.

I have learnt the words "accumulator" which I think is the russian word for battery and nothing to do with going to the bookies and "elektroleat" - hopefully that means distilled water in Tajik as that is what I have just poured into my battery. The second time this trip my battery has gone dry - if anyone has any sensible (or otherwise) suggestions as to why this is so please get in touch.

I have checked the battery carefully for any leaks and there are none and I don't think it is due to the hot, dry condidiotns as I only had to top up my battery once on the hot 12,000 mile crossing of Africa, this is now twice in 3000 miles.


We are spending a couple of days in Khorog to relax, wash the dust out of our clothes and hair (first running water we have seen for three days not including the river) and to get over the rigours of the last three days on the road, catching up on internat access is also a priority but as there are only five working PC'sin the town this is not as easy as it sounds.


I have also found a Pamir delicacy that looks strangely familiar - pasties, though not as we know them - Ginsters would disown me for even caling them pasties. Deep fried and greasy with a choice of two fillings - unidentifiable meat or potato. It's a bit of a russian roulette which one I get when I buy them.


we are due to continue southwards towards the Wakhan Valley tomorrow morning to sample delights such as the Bibi Fatima hot springs and an extremely high mountain to cross which I haven't told Annie about yet. Possibly no internet access for a few days again.


So, how long until you are

So, how long until you are assuming you'll reach Mongolia? I must confess I know nothing about Mongolia...well until I picked up a book a friend leant me last night called 'The Horse Boy', all about a young autistic boy whose parents took him to ride through Mongolia on a horse (which was one of the only ways of connecting with him)in order to hopefully heal him, by meeting with native Shamans. They spoke of 'UB' as they called it ( I now know Ulaanbataar is the cap. city) which they said was an ugly Soviet-style 'carbuncle' on the landscape between beautiful mountain ridges and otherwise unspoilt wildnerness, and the Nadaam festival where they have traditional activitites going on like kids racing horses about 20 miles, and wrestling...which brought back memories from Bruce Parries tv series. It is also were the horse was first domesticated. I also learned most of the people still live a nomadic lifestyle, living in handy, transportable gers.

Maybe you could see a Shaman about your Still's disease that made you so ill and try and make sure it never causes you trouble again. Except from the discriptions of their ceremonies you could end up having vodka spat in your face, having to drink Mare's milk more than once (ew), or being whipped while the shaman is in their deep trance. Whatever they deem necessary....

Mongolia dates??

Hopefully we will reach Mongolia at the end of August, it just depends how long it takes us to transit through over a thousand miles of Russia, where there is not a lot of tarmac.

Tiffers olde girl! Sounds

Tiffers olde girl!

Sounds like your having a great time out there, really great to hear after your peiod of poor health.

Had a wee thought about your battery running dy, it might possibly be due to it getting over charged and running hot. If you can find a garage with a basic multimeter connect it across the battery with Thelma running and rev the engine up steadily. The maxium voltage across the battery shouldn't really rise much above 15 volts. If it does then it could be your regulator at fault it might be a combined rectifier/regulator. If no multimeter available switch on your headlamps on dip beam and rev the engine up steadily and see if the lights brighten up and then stay steady even though the revs are getting higher, have you blown any bulbs at all? Oh if your lucky enough to borrow a multimeter make sure it is set to measure Volts DC and not ohms or the multimeter will glow like a bulb then die very quickly!

Hope you get it sorted girl.

May the sun always shine in your face and the wind always blow on your back.

Best wishes Raven.

battery problems

Raven- great to hear from you.

someone else has suggested the battery might be overcharging so I shall try your tests on it. You'll be pleased (if a little surprised) to hear that I HAVE got a multimeter, though the instructions are in spanish (a Guatemala purchase as I recall). I shall try it out later.

if you still have the Moto Syberia DVD - it is SO true to life, I have been riding tracks that I recognise from the DVD- amazing routes and scenery.