Is this really South Ossetia?

April and I headed north back into Georgia, Armenia has the dubious fame of not getting on with three quarters of its neighbours and so the only land route in and out is through Georgia, making Armenia a bit of a dead end - though a nice dead end.

Back to the cold mountains for the brder crossing but without quite as much altitude or the driving rain, it was lot more bearable this time around. A stopover at Lake Sevan - the Lake Titicaca of Armenia, with its placid blue waters ringed by snowy peaks.

Customs had the chek to charge me to take Thelma out of the country which is a first for me- generally of there is any fee to be paid it is only to enter a country, insurcen, customs inspection, fumigation etc, I don't think I have ever paid to leave somewhere. We both tried to protest and asked to see it in the regulations, which were a long time coming - when they did though, it looked like I might have to pay more than the original amount asked for so we went a bit quiet after that and just paid whilst insisting on full receipts etc.

Then north through Georgia into the mountains along the imaginatively named Georgian Military Road- we found a very laid back and helpful hotel by the river where we satyed, though once we had compared our map to the guide book we realised we were in South Ossetia- main scene of last year's war and supposed to be avoided - too late now I thought as I went to bed thinking maybe I should have brought a bullet proof vest with me.

Celeb chef Tiff

Shame about missing out on celebrity cook opportunity! You could have been the female Hugh Fearnly wotsit - you know, cook anything, anywhere - you could have been the girl to make Eastern European roadkill trendy.

camp adventures

you have been missing out on summer camp adventures - starter motor problems, blazing hot sunshine, river rope swings and lots of chat around the fire - much more exciting than what you are doing...