Tyres...

Leaving Pang, I realised I had a flat tyre, luckily this guy was on hand

He usually works on trucks but took on the Enfield with gusto (though not very competently as I was to discover later).
I had prime viewing spot, sat next to the Sikh guy on the seat ripped out of a bus


- in true Coates style, sitting on a comfy seat in warm sunshine after several days of riding I drifted off to sleep - much to the amusement of the mechanic, and the alarm of the Sikh next to me - I swear I was NOT dribbling on this shoulder

I paid the tyre guy 50 Rupees (about 50 pence) - that's the going rate, and continued, keen to make up the lost time. My surroundings had changed, arid is the word, nothing grows along here.
I found a cyclist to take a picture of me riding past

They're hardcore, the cyclists who take on the Himalayas.

Indian understatement of the year - I'd asked a bloke about fuel- he said no petrol until Upshi, but he did mention a "Tilted Petrol Lorry" further down the road, well, tilted is NOT the word I would use for this

Completely upside down where he had rolled down the mountainside.

no chance of petrol from him, so I continued, at which point...

Another flat, and this time literally in the middle of nowhere by the roadside, though luckily there was tarmac.
I soon had some helpers

Including a couple of guys from a bike club in Mumbai- I am now an honorary member of their bike club
Tiffany of the Road Stallions (I don't think they reckoned on having female riders in their club), though as a former member of the National Union of Railwaymen, a mis-titled group is something I'm used to.

These are half yak, half cow calves being driven along the road.